This gear edition of Storm The Wire Video covers food and water storage. You can re-use clean heavy duty hard plastic 1 gallon containers (avoid using old milk jugs) or the standard 2-liter soda bottles after they have been cleaned. If you would rather you can buy the 2.5 gallon containers from the grocery store, six 2.5 gallon containers will give you enough water for 3 days using the water for cooking/washing/drinking or 2 weeks if just used for drinking water. Another option is three 5 gallon water cooler style jugs or the same used for camping purposes. You may have to buy a pump or spigot to use these. At camping or surplus stores you may also be able to find 15-50 gallon drums. Tap water in clean containers or commercially bottled water will last at least 2 years before rotation is needed. More resources on food storage can be found on my YouTube playlist here: www.youtube.com Store bulk dry goods including rice, pasta, dry beans, grains, etc. in clean heavy duty plastic containers like food grade buckets. Ideally you would use mylar or vacuum sealed bags with oxygen absorbers, but the food will still last years if rodents do not compromise the plastic container. Food can lose some nutrients and discolor over a long period of time due to oxidation if not sealed in mylar or vacuum seal but can still last up to a decade. Store containers in a temperature controlled - cool, dry place if possible. It is advisable to purchase a food dehydrator and vacuum food sealer to ...
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Interview with Low Calorie Raw Vegan Bodybuilder Mark Handy (Part 2 of 2) #177
(CLICK This Downward Pointing Arrow For More Info) →→ Mark and Bridgitte's website: mbchocolate.ca Algae Mark uses: tinyurl.com (Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae) bit.ly (Chlorella) bit.ly (Spirulina) Superfoods Mark uses: tinyurl.com (Bee Pollen) tinyurl.com (Dulse) bit.ly (Raw Chocolate) bit.ly (Chia Seeds) tinyurl.com (Raw Vegan Protein Powder) Herbs Mark uses: tinyurl.com (Ginseng) Supplements Mark Uses: tinyurl.com (Enzymes) You can set up a phone consultation with Zak by clicking here: www.secrets-of-longevity-in-humans.com You can read and subscribe to Zak's blog at this at this link: zakmartinkilgour.com You can follow Zak on twitter here: twitter.com
Sunday, December 18, 2011
White Chia 10 Lb Bag, Organically Grown Non-GMO
!±8± White Chia 10 Lb Bag, Organically Grown Non-GMO
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Post Date : Dec 18, 2011 12:34:27 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : Post Date : Dec 18, 2011 12:34:27 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
Chia seeds are remarkable for their high nutritional levels and energy-enhancing effect on the body. If you could take just one cup of food for a few days, choose chia. The food value per volume is simply astounding! You don't need much. Chia seeds have a very mild taste, making it easy to add to foods. The seeds can be used to replace less-healthy fat in just about any recipe. You can use them uncooked in salad dressings, spreads, fruit shakes, ice cream, and just about anything you want. You can also add them to cookies, cakes, muffins, and other baked goods. Chia seeds lead to weight loss-they are so filling that you will eat less of other foods. In addition, they bulk up and cleanse your body. Chia seed is eaten raw, ground into flour for baking, soaked in water or juice to yield "chia fresca" to thicken puddings and sauces, and is used to produce sprouts for salads, sandwiches and omelets, much like alfalfa sprouts. Take a tablespoon and put it in your water bottle, shake and drink-it will keep you well hydrated on a hike. I put it in my water glass every morning. Doesn't taste. Non-GMO. Organically grown. Try this!
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Thursday, December 15, 2011
Seed Power!
Seeds are potent foods and a delicious, inexpensive way to get lots nutrients. They are cheaper and lower in fat than nuts. They are packed with protein and beneficial fats. They can be eaten a variety of ways, but should always be soaked overnight and thoroughly rinsed in order to get rid of enzyme inhibitors. After that, you can sprout them, dehydrate them to make crackers, toss them in salads, sprinkle them over vegetables, and also dry them in a dehydrator and then grind them to make a raw "parmesan" sprinkle.
Hemp
The more I researched, the more convinced I became that hemp is a superfood that contains super fat and superlative protein. Hemp contains GLA, found to be effective in weight loss. Hemp contains all the essential fatty acids (fats) and all the essential amino acids (protein).
Lynn Osburn calls hemp seed "the most nutritionally complete food source in the world" (Hemp Line Journal, Vol. I No.2). She explains that hemp seed oil is 55% linoleic acid (LA) and 25% LNA (linolenic acid), or 2.2 times more LA than LNA, which makes it "the best seed oil for optimal health and prevention of fatty degeneration." Osburn concludes that "plants have created the perfect container to safely store the EFAs and protect them from light and oxygen damage. It is the seed. And as long as we get our essential fatty acids by eating whole seeds, the life force within us is charged with vitality. Hemp seeds contain the perfect balance of the essential fatty acids required by the human body. Hemp seed oil is indeed the oil of life."
It is illegal to grow hemp in the USA although it is legal to sell it here. Perhaps that is why it is so expensive. These laws need to be changed!
Warning: before you take a drug test, be sure to mention that you eat hemp. You might fail the test due to some THC content. (The trace content is not enough to alter your consciousness, though.)
Flax
Entire books have been written about the wonders of flax seeds. Flax has been used in Canada in treatment of breast cancer. It has been proven in scientific studies to reduce weight, reduce the risk of cancer, help diabetics, improve brain and mood disorders, reduce asthma, reduce arthritis and other inflammatory diseases, keep the heart healthy, and more.
If you are a raw fooder, I don't need to tell you how wonderful flax seeds are. They are very common in raw food crackers, breads, and gourmet dishes. They are one of the richest foods in omega 3s. Sometimes raw fooders jump in directly from the standard American diet in which the omega 6 to omega 3 ratio is often 6 to 1 (instead of 1:1 or 2:1 that is the standard recommendation). These people suddenly experience a brain awakening like no other, and rapid weight loss, just because of these delicious, inexpensive seeds!
With all of the glamor attributed to flax, imagine my surprise, when researching for this book, to discover that flax can be toxic! Flax contains antagonistic factors of the vitamin B group. Studies done by Toug, Chen and Thompson (1998) as well as Rickard and Thompson (1998) demonstrate that flax contains toxins that have made medical doctors advise against its consumption for pregnant and lactating women! Human consumption of flax has even been banned in France and limited in Germany, Switzerland, and Belgium!
The toxin in flax is cyanogenic glycosides (also found in lima beans, sweet potatoes, yams, and bamboo shoots), which metabolize into yet another substance called thiocyanate (SCN), which over time, can suppress the thyroid's ability to take up sufficient iodine. This means over-consumption of flax, in addition to being toxic, can actually indirectly cause us to gain weight by suppressing the thyroid, which regulates the metabolism!
Ann Louise Gittleman advises taking no more than three or four tablespoons of flax per day. She claims that baking or toasting the seeds deactivates the toxic cyanogenic glycosides but (if under 300 F) preserves the beneficial omega 3s (The Fat Flush Plan, p. 167). However, some researchers (Muir and Westcott, 2000) found that the free form of SDG remained stable even in baked goods.
Gittleman points out, however, that flaxseed oil is free of cyanogenic glycosides. But most flax oils, even when labeled cold pressed, are not raw. They are usually heated at 160 F.
Chia
Americans need to create a demand for Chia seeds. They were used in North America for thousands of years during the Aztec reign. The Aztecs even demanded that the nations they defeated pay them chia seeds as one of their tributes. Chia was one of the four main components of the Aztec diet (the other three being corn, beans, and amaranth).
Chia was used for flour, drinks, oil, medicine, and religious ceremonies. Unfortunately, the Spanish government decreed the elimination of everything related to pre-Columbian religions (Chia P. 77). This no doubt led to chia's not being used for the centuries. Maybe this is why chia seeds cost about five times as much as flax seeds. Recently chia has made a come-back because of the growing awareness of the need for omega-3 fatty acids. Perhaps the cost would come down if more people demanded them.
Chia seeds are rich in omega 3s like flax, but without the toxins. Chia seeds are 50% protein, which is the highest of any seed. Most seeds contain only 20-30% protein. Besides their nutritional content, another huge advantage of chia seeds is that they stay fresh longer than flax, even when ground into flour. The Aztecs stored chia flour for months and even years before using it as food because it didn't go rancid. So you could ground up chia seeds to use in crackers and not have to store them in the refrigerator the way you do with ground flax.
Sesame
Sesame seeds are rich in calcium, containing 90 mg. per tablespoon for the unhulled seeds (about the same as 1/3 cup of milk). Calcium has been a proven weight-loss booster.
Pumpkin
Pumpkin seeds contain Vitamin A and betacarotene. They also contain the amino acid tryptophan, which is a precursor to serotonin, a neurotransmitter than helps us relax and sleep.
Sunflower
Sunflower seeds are rich in omega-6 essential fatty acids. They are also a good source of Vitamin E, B Vitamins, and minerals such as potassium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, selenium, calcium and zinc. Additionally, they are rich in cholesterol-lowering phytosterols. Sunflower seeds were found to reduce addictive tendencies in a study by Dr. John Douglass of Kaiser-Permanente Medical Center in Los Angeles.
Broccoli Seeds
Sprouts made from broccoli seeds are one of the best things you can take to prevent cancer. Broccoli sprouts are rich in the compound glucoraphanin which is a precursor to sulforaphane. Sulforaphane has been proven to boost the body's natural cancer protection resources and help reduce the risk of malignancy. According to Dr. Mercola, "A pound of sprouts will probably make over ten pounds of sprouts which from the researchers' calculations translates up to as much cancer protecting phytochemicals as 1000 pounds (half a ton) of broccoli!"
Become a seed activist! Petition that the government legalize the growing of hemp here so that the cost will go down. Start hounding seed vendors to get chia seeds so that their cost will also go down as they can get it in bulk. Always buy only organic seeds, not GMOs, which have been proven to be toxic deregulate our cells' DNA into premature aging. Sprout seeds on a daily basis. Make crackers from various seeds.
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Sunday, December 11, 2011
How to abound SPROUTS (my aboriginal try & it worked!)
Wish I had known about this years ago! Sprouts are a great addition to salads, stir fry...whatever. You don't have to spend a bunch of money, I made my whole perpetual sprouting "system" for less than and that is only because I chose to purchase bulk seeds and a food grade screen. The casserole you see in the end of the video was made entirely from potatoes, greens and beans from my garden with the addition of soy chicken patties....so it was almost free!!! If you want to eat healthy very inexpensively then you have to try this!
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Thursday, December 8, 2011
Top Tips For Orlando Landscaping
Gardeners and homeowners living in Orlando, Florida are lucky. The warm, humid climate allows for a beautiful landscape, year round. Homeowners and business owners can capitalize on the wonderful climate by planting landscapes that shine all of the time. Follow these top tips about the best plants for Orlando, proper maintenance for Orlando landscaping and more, and you will install an Orlando landscape with across the board appeal.
Best Plants for Orlando
Orlando gardens can shine year-round with these plants:
Trees: Crape Myrtle, Poinciana, River Birch, Magnolia, Holly, Palm Trees
Shrubs: Indian hawthorne, Azalea, Cycads, Wax Myrtle, Allamanda
Perennials: Canna, Shrimp plant, Orchids, Knockout roses, Ginger lily, Heliconia, Plumbago, Eucomis, Daylilies, Bromeliads
Annuals: Pansies, Snapdragons, Pentas, Annual vinca, Cleome, Geranium (just about everything!)
Vines: Confederate jasmine, Passionflower, Clerodendrum
Best Maintenance Practices for Orlando Landscapes
Water: Water deeply and infrequently, for both lawns and landscapes.
Pruning: Prune plants just after they flower, before they set new flowerbuds. Try to avoid the "meatball" look.
Mowing: Mow your grass to the proper height for its species. Doing so will help prevent weed seeds from sprouting and prevent fungal problems.
Planting: Select plants that will do well in the areas you want to use them. Some plants like sun and others like shade. Starting out with plants in the right areas will save you time and money later. Additionally, some annual flowers like cool weather-pansies and snapdragons included, while others thrive in hot weather-pentas and annual vinca like it hot!
Soil Preparation: When adding a new landscape installation such as a new flower bed or a new foundation planting, always add about four inches of topsoil/compost blend to your existing soil. A little soil prep in the beginning goes a long way.
Secrets for Super Landscapes in Orlando
If you get jealous of the gardens every time you drive by a beautiful lawn, or visit one of Orlando's many theme parks, take heart-you can achieve that look yourself! The main thing that separates large, professionally tended landscapes from home landscapes is bulk! Even if you are a plant fanatic and have a difficult time deciding which plants to buy, control the impulse to buy one of everything. For bedding plants and flowers, choose three to five types and buy at least 15 of each plant. You can then mix them together, or plant them in overlapping sweeps in the flowerbed. Try it! You will see juts how easy it is!
One other secret for a super landscape: Start with a good foundation planting including trees and shrubs-both evergreen and deciduous. Then change your annual plants at least twice a year. Nobody enjoys looking at pansies struggling in the heat.
Try these tips and tricks and you will have a landscape that is the envy of your neighbors.
Friday, December 2, 2011
Nutgrass Infestations - Minimizing it With Inexpensive Spot-Treatments
Nutgrass infestations of lawns and gardens are difficult to eradicate or control. This annoying condition is caused by the plant's extensive tubular (nutlet) root system that goes deep and wide underground. These rhizome or chain-strand roots are the main source of nutgrass renewal, more so than from the seeds of their flowers. Because nutgrass keeps a continuous reservoir of dormant roots (nutlets), it has an endless supply future growths. Thus, when one growth of shoots is treated or removed, another growth or two will sprout up nearby. To minimize nutgrass growth, its root system must be destroyed, which is not a simple one-time-treatment task.
What is nutgrass or nutsedge?
Nutgrass is a heavy perennial grass of the sedge family. Technically, two common varieties of it (purple and yellow nutgrass) are called cyperus rotundus and cyperus esculentus, respectively. Nutgrass is also called water grass because it likes moisture, tight soil, and lots of hot sunshine. It's often recognized as the fast-growing taller grass that appears shortly after mowing a lawn. Its course grass-like shoots (three-to-five or more per plant) are each slightly triangular or V-shaped with a strong vertical vein going down the middle of each. Often, the yellow variety is a lighter green than the surrounding lawn. Nutgrass is invasive. It will spread without some kind of controlling treatment. It goes dormant in the autumn of winter climates, but will reappear the following late spring.
Nutgrass Treatments.
Five common treatments for controlling nutgrass are available to the homeowner and consumer. Each one, listed below, can be done in a safe manner. But none of them are effective one-time cures. Overall, the two herbicide treatments listed below (4 and 5) appear to be effective means for controlling it at this time. However, the chemical treatments must done safely by following the product's written directions for use. Herbicide appliers could also read and know the products material-safety-data-sheets (MSDS).
1. Mechanically disturbing it. Plowing, cultivating, tilling, or digging-up the ground, and then sifting out the nutgrass roots. This treatment works. But it has to be repeated often, which eliminates it as a lawn treatment, and makes it impractical for treating crowded gardens.
2. Pulling or weeding it. This treatment will make the shoots disappear for a while. However, most of its original roots are still submerged underground. Thus, these plants will soon return, often more of them than before.
3. Smothering it. Covering the infected area with sheeting, e.g., cardboard, plastic, plywood, canvas, or mulch. This treatment will slow nutgrass down for a while, but won't stop or kill it. Nutgrass will pierce its way through cardboard, cloth, plastic, and mulch. Also, its covered roots will remain dormant for return growths once the covering is removed or wears thin. Additionally, the nutgrass will spread to the outside of the covering, underground.
4. Spraying it with a diluted herbicide solution. Spraying the infected area with a chemical formula purchased at local gardening outlets is a common choice among busy homeowners. This treatment works okay with repeated applications, done at consumer's risk. The applications generally are done when no rain or dampness is in the forecast. Also, commercial lawn-care companies can do this treatment effectively; actually, they are a good choice for a safe, more expensive cure.
Still, the main herbicide chosen for the treatment must be compatible with the infested yard in question. For example, one herbicide will work well with some grasses, but will harm others. Also, a lawn-compatible herbicide could harm the lawn if applied too often or too strongly. Additionally, another herbicide can be used on the lawn, but it cannot be used near vegetable or ornamental plants. Thus, the applier of the spray must be careful both in choosing the herbicide and applying it.
Also, the more recent urea-type herbicides, like, halosulfuron-methyl, appear to work well on the nutgrass infested lawns if applied regularly and seasonally for two or more years. It can take that long to minimize the nutgrass root system, depending on how well its start is. This kind of spraying can reduce infestations over large areas of ground.
5. Spot-treating it with a strong herbicide solution. Applying a strong herbicide solution to the individual nutgrass plants can be done with a narrow-stream spray-bottle or a thick artist's paint brush. This treatment is best suited for mild infestations of nutgrass or fairly small patches of it. (Note: if an entire lawn is heavily infested, it might be best to 1) kill the whole yard with a total vegetation killer, 2) plow or till up its ground while sieving out the nutlets, and 3) reseed it after a short waiting period. Vegetation killers do not destroy the ground itself, rather, only the vegetation growing on it. If in doubt about this step, obtain a professional opinion first.)
Yet, during the spot-treatment of nutgrass, the herbicide solution must be applied to the nutgrass leaves directly, again at the consumer's risk. The herbicide will then translocate from leaves to the stem and roots. Also, applying a daub of the solution onto the plant's leaf-crotch at the stem helps to kill the plant, but the bulk of the application must go onto the leaves for a good uptake that will reach the roots. Additionally, the applier must keep the solution from touching the surrounding grasses or plants as much as possible, especially if the chemical is a kill-all herbicide.
Glyphosate (organic-salt), a well-known main ingredient of kill-all-vegetation herbicides, can be used here. A 12-to-16-oz bottle of 41% liquid concentrate can be purchased for about at local outlets. Glyphosate is fairly nontoxic to humans, but it must still be handled safely by wearing rubber gloves and other apparel. This concentrate can be applied to the nutgrass shoots by first diluting it with water anywhere from a 1:1 to 1:20 concentration in a small capped container. First-time users might want to start with a 1:20 solution to test how the process works by trial and error, while working up to a stronger concentration. Also, home owners having delicate grasses and ornamental plants will want to use a dilute glyphosate solution to start with, like, 1:20 or more, which is much closer to the diluted spray concentrations. Furthermore, the halosulfuron-methyl herbicide mentioned above in #4 can be used for spot-treating nutgrass by following the product's directions for diluting it to a powerful spray concentration (0.9-g granules/gallon) for about .
Certain sources suggest adding other ingredients to these kind of solutions, like, the adding of a surfactant (dish soap), hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, or a particular salt to make it stick to the leaves better, or to help it absorb through them faster. But, none of these additions are necessary. Also, such mixtures can yield slight chemical alterations over time, which will give undesirable results by not working well at all, or by the killing of adjacent grasses and plants inexplicably. Yet, when freshly-made spot-treatments are done carefully, the nutgrass will die in about one-to-two weeks without causing excessive disturbances to the surrounding vegetation.
Six-day appearances of yellow nutgrass after spot-treatment with 20% glyphosate solution.
Shoots slightly limp; no color change
Shoots more limp; slight color change to amber
Shoots touch the ground; overall color is more amber
Shoots start to wither; color is still more amber
Shoots lay on ground and begin to curl; only slight yellow-green color left
Shoots are withered straw-like stalks lying on the ground or lawn
Spot-treating nutgrass with a strong herbicide solution is time-consuming, and requires substantial patience to carry out, especially when the home/yard owner does it alone. Undoubtedly, his/her neighbors will ask, "Hey! What are you doing there?" But, this fairly inexpensive treatment works well for minimizing nutgrass infestations if the solution is handled and applied carefully at the owners discretion. Once the main infestation is under control, it's fairly easy to suppress any new growths with continued spot-applications.
At this time, the spraying or spot-treating of common nutgrasses with carefully selected herbicide solutions appears to be an effective means for minimizing its infestations of yards and gardens. These treatments can be done by the yard/garden-owners themselves at their own risks, or by hired professionals.
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