This gear edition of Storm The Wire Video covers food and water storage. You can re-use clean heavy duty hard plastic 1 gallon containers (avoid using old milk jugs) or the standard 2-liter soda bottles after they have been cleaned. If you would rather you can buy the 2.5 gallon containers from the grocery store, six 2.5 gallon containers will give you enough water for 3 days using the water for cooking/washing/drinking or 2 weeks if just used for drinking water. Another option is three 5 gallon water cooler style jugs or the same used for camping purposes. You may have to buy a pump or spigot to use these. At camping or surplus stores you may also be able to find 15-50 gallon drums. Tap water in clean containers or commercially bottled water will last at least 2 years before rotation is needed. More resources on food storage can be found on my YouTube playlist here: www.youtube.com Store bulk dry goods including rice, pasta, dry beans, grains, etc. in clean heavy duty plastic containers like food grade buckets. Ideally you would use mylar or vacuum sealed bags with oxygen absorbers, but the food will still last years if rodents do not compromise the plastic container. Food can lose some nutrients and discolor over a long period of time due to oxidation if not sealed in mylar or vacuum seal but can still last up to a decade. Store containers in a temperature controlled - cool, dry place if possible. It is advisable to purchase a food dehydrator and vacuum food sealer to ...
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Interview with Low Calorie Raw Vegan Bodybuilder Mark Handy (Part 2 of 2) #177
(CLICK This Downward Pointing Arrow For More Info) →→ Mark and Bridgitte's website: mbchocolate.ca Algae Mark uses: tinyurl.com (Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae) bit.ly (Chlorella) bit.ly (Spirulina) Superfoods Mark uses: tinyurl.com (Bee Pollen) tinyurl.com (Dulse) bit.ly (Raw Chocolate) bit.ly (Chia Seeds) tinyurl.com (Raw Vegan Protein Powder) Herbs Mark uses: tinyurl.com (Ginseng) Supplements Mark Uses: tinyurl.com (Enzymes) You can set up a phone consultation with Zak by clicking here: www.secrets-of-longevity-in-humans.com You can read and subscribe to Zak's blog at this at this link: zakmartinkilgour.com You can follow Zak on twitter here: twitter.com
Sunday, December 18, 2011
White Chia 10 Lb Bag, Organically Grown Non-GMO
!±8± White Chia 10 Lb Bag, Organically Grown Non-GMO
Brand : Love to Learn | Rate : 
| Price :
Post Date : Dec 18, 2011 12:34:27 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : Post Date : Dec 18, 2011 12:34:27 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
Chia seeds are remarkable for their high nutritional levels and energy-enhancing effect on the body. If you could take just one cup of food for a few days, choose chia. The food value per volume is simply astounding! You don't need much. Chia seeds have a very mild taste, making it easy to add to foods. The seeds can be used to replace less-healthy fat in just about any recipe. You can use them uncooked in salad dressings, spreads, fruit shakes, ice cream, and just about anything you want. You can also add them to cookies, cakes, muffins, and other baked goods. Chia seeds lead to weight loss-they are so filling that you will eat less of other foods. In addition, they bulk up and cleanse your body. Chia seed is eaten raw, ground into flour for baking, soaked in water or juice to yield "chia fresca" to thicken puddings and sauces, and is used to produce sprouts for salads, sandwiches and omelets, much like alfalfa sprouts. Take a tablespoon and put it in your water bottle, shake and drink-it will keep you well hydrated on a hike. I put it in my water glass every morning. Doesn't taste. Non-GMO. Organically grown. Try this!
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Thursday, December 15, 2011
Seed Power!
Seeds are potent foods and a delicious, inexpensive way to get lots nutrients. They are cheaper and lower in fat than nuts. They are packed with protein and beneficial fats. They can be eaten a variety of ways, but should always be soaked overnight and thoroughly rinsed in order to get rid of enzyme inhibitors. After that, you can sprout them, dehydrate them to make crackers, toss them in salads, sprinkle them over vegetables, and also dry them in a dehydrator and then grind them to make a raw "parmesan" sprinkle.
Hemp
The more I researched, the more convinced I became that hemp is a superfood that contains super fat and superlative protein. Hemp contains GLA, found to be effective in weight loss. Hemp contains all the essential fatty acids (fats) and all the essential amino acids (protein).
Lynn Osburn calls hemp seed "the most nutritionally complete food source in the world" (Hemp Line Journal, Vol. I No.2). She explains that hemp seed oil is 55% linoleic acid (LA) and 25% LNA (linolenic acid), or 2.2 times more LA than LNA, which makes it "the best seed oil for optimal health and prevention of fatty degeneration." Osburn concludes that "plants have created the perfect container to safely store the EFAs and protect them from light and oxygen damage. It is the seed. And as long as we get our essential fatty acids by eating whole seeds, the life force within us is charged with vitality. Hemp seeds contain the perfect balance of the essential fatty acids required by the human body. Hemp seed oil is indeed the oil of life."
It is illegal to grow hemp in the USA although it is legal to sell it here. Perhaps that is why it is so expensive. These laws need to be changed!
Warning: before you take a drug test, be sure to mention that you eat hemp. You might fail the test due to some THC content. (The trace content is not enough to alter your consciousness, though.)
Flax
Entire books have been written about the wonders of flax seeds. Flax has been used in Canada in treatment of breast cancer. It has been proven in scientific studies to reduce weight, reduce the risk of cancer, help diabetics, improve brain and mood disorders, reduce asthma, reduce arthritis and other inflammatory diseases, keep the heart healthy, and more.
If you are a raw fooder, I don't need to tell you how wonderful flax seeds are. They are very common in raw food crackers, breads, and gourmet dishes. They are one of the richest foods in omega 3s. Sometimes raw fooders jump in directly from the standard American diet in which the omega 6 to omega 3 ratio is often 6 to 1 (instead of 1:1 or 2:1 that is the standard recommendation). These people suddenly experience a brain awakening like no other, and rapid weight loss, just because of these delicious, inexpensive seeds!
With all of the glamor attributed to flax, imagine my surprise, when researching for this book, to discover that flax can be toxic! Flax contains antagonistic factors of the vitamin B group. Studies done by Toug, Chen and Thompson (1998) as well as Rickard and Thompson (1998) demonstrate that flax contains toxins that have made medical doctors advise against its consumption for pregnant and lactating women! Human consumption of flax has even been banned in France and limited in Germany, Switzerland, and Belgium!
The toxin in flax is cyanogenic glycosides (also found in lima beans, sweet potatoes, yams, and bamboo shoots), which metabolize into yet another substance called thiocyanate (SCN), which over time, can suppress the thyroid's ability to take up sufficient iodine. This means over-consumption of flax, in addition to being toxic, can actually indirectly cause us to gain weight by suppressing the thyroid, which regulates the metabolism!
Ann Louise Gittleman advises taking no more than three or four tablespoons of flax per day. She claims that baking or toasting the seeds deactivates the toxic cyanogenic glycosides but (if under 300 F) preserves the beneficial omega 3s (The Fat Flush Plan, p. 167). However, some researchers (Muir and Westcott, 2000) found that the free form of SDG remained stable even in baked goods.
Gittleman points out, however, that flaxseed oil is free of cyanogenic glycosides. But most flax oils, even when labeled cold pressed, are not raw. They are usually heated at 160 F.
Chia
Americans need to create a demand for Chia seeds. They were used in North America for thousands of years during the Aztec reign. The Aztecs even demanded that the nations they defeated pay them chia seeds as one of their tributes. Chia was one of the four main components of the Aztec diet (the other three being corn, beans, and amaranth).
Chia was used for flour, drinks, oil, medicine, and religious ceremonies. Unfortunately, the Spanish government decreed the elimination of everything related to pre-Columbian religions (Chia P. 77). This no doubt led to chia's not being used for the centuries. Maybe this is why chia seeds cost about five times as much as flax seeds. Recently chia has made a come-back because of the growing awareness of the need for omega-3 fatty acids. Perhaps the cost would come down if more people demanded them.
Chia seeds are rich in omega 3s like flax, but without the toxins. Chia seeds are 50% protein, which is the highest of any seed. Most seeds contain only 20-30% protein. Besides their nutritional content, another huge advantage of chia seeds is that they stay fresh longer than flax, even when ground into flour. The Aztecs stored chia flour for months and even years before using it as food because it didn't go rancid. So you could ground up chia seeds to use in crackers and not have to store them in the refrigerator the way you do with ground flax.
Sesame
Sesame seeds are rich in calcium, containing 90 mg. per tablespoon for the unhulled seeds (about the same as 1/3 cup of milk). Calcium has been a proven weight-loss booster.
Pumpkin
Pumpkin seeds contain Vitamin A and betacarotene. They also contain the amino acid tryptophan, which is a precursor to serotonin, a neurotransmitter than helps us relax and sleep.
Sunflower
Sunflower seeds are rich in omega-6 essential fatty acids. They are also a good source of Vitamin E, B Vitamins, and minerals such as potassium, magnesium, iron, phosphorus, selenium, calcium and zinc. Additionally, they are rich in cholesterol-lowering phytosterols. Sunflower seeds were found to reduce addictive tendencies in a study by Dr. John Douglass of Kaiser-Permanente Medical Center in Los Angeles.
Broccoli Seeds
Sprouts made from broccoli seeds are one of the best things you can take to prevent cancer. Broccoli sprouts are rich in the compound glucoraphanin which is a precursor to sulforaphane. Sulforaphane has been proven to boost the body's natural cancer protection resources and help reduce the risk of malignancy. According to Dr. Mercola, "A pound of sprouts will probably make over ten pounds of sprouts which from the researchers' calculations translates up to as much cancer protecting phytochemicals as 1000 pounds (half a ton) of broccoli!"
Become a seed activist! Petition that the government legalize the growing of hemp here so that the cost will go down. Start hounding seed vendors to get chia seeds so that their cost will also go down as they can get it in bulk. Always buy only organic seeds, not GMOs, which have been proven to be toxic deregulate our cells' DNA into premature aging. Sprout seeds on a daily basis. Make crackers from various seeds.
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Sunday, December 11, 2011
How to abound SPROUTS (my aboriginal try & it worked!)
Wish I had known about this years ago! Sprouts are a great addition to salads, stir fry...whatever. You don't have to spend a bunch of money, I made my whole perpetual sprouting "system" for less than and that is only because I chose to purchase bulk seeds and a food grade screen. The casserole you see in the end of the video was made entirely from potatoes, greens and beans from my garden with the addition of soy chicken patties....so it was almost free!!! If you want to eat healthy very inexpensively then you have to try this!
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Thursday, December 8, 2011
Top Tips For Orlando Landscaping
Gardeners and homeowners living in Orlando, Florida are lucky. The warm, humid climate allows for a beautiful landscape, year round. Homeowners and business owners can capitalize on the wonderful climate by planting landscapes that shine all of the time. Follow these top tips about the best plants for Orlando, proper maintenance for Orlando landscaping and more, and you will install an Orlando landscape with across the board appeal.
Best Plants for Orlando
Orlando gardens can shine year-round with these plants:
Trees: Crape Myrtle, Poinciana, River Birch, Magnolia, Holly, Palm Trees
Shrubs: Indian hawthorne, Azalea, Cycads, Wax Myrtle, Allamanda
Perennials: Canna, Shrimp plant, Orchids, Knockout roses, Ginger lily, Heliconia, Plumbago, Eucomis, Daylilies, Bromeliads
Annuals: Pansies, Snapdragons, Pentas, Annual vinca, Cleome, Geranium (just about everything!)
Vines: Confederate jasmine, Passionflower, Clerodendrum
Best Maintenance Practices for Orlando Landscapes
Water: Water deeply and infrequently, for both lawns and landscapes.
Pruning: Prune plants just after they flower, before they set new flowerbuds. Try to avoid the "meatball" look.
Mowing: Mow your grass to the proper height for its species. Doing so will help prevent weed seeds from sprouting and prevent fungal problems.
Planting: Select plants that will do well in the areas you want to use them. Some plants like sun and others like shade. Starting out with plants in the right areas will save you time and money later. Additionally, some annual flowers like cool weather-pansies and snapdragons included, while others thrive in hot weather-pentas and annual vinca like it hot!
Soil Preparation: When adding a new landscape installation such as a new flower bed or a new foundation planting, always add about four inches of topsoil/compost blend to your existing soil. A little soil prep in the beginning goes a long way.
Secrets for Super Landscapes in Orlando
If you get jealous of the gardens every time you drive by a beautiful lawn, or visit one of Orlando's many theme parks, take heart-you can achieve that look yourself! The main thing that separates large, professionally tended landscapes from home landscapes is bulk! Even if you are a plant fanatic and have a difficult time deciding which plants to buy, control the impulse to buy one of everything. For bedding plants and flowers, choose three to five types and buy at least 15 of each plant. You can then mix them together, or plant them in overlapping sweeps in the flowerbed. Try it! You will see juts how easy it is!
One other secret for a super landscape: Start with a good foundation planting including trees and shrubs-both evergreen and deciduous. Then change your annual plants at least twice a year. Nobody enjoys looking at pansies struggling in the heat.
Try these tips and tricks and you will have a landscape that is the envy of your neighbors.
Friday, December 2, 2011
Nutgrass Infestations - Minimizing it With Inexpensive Spot-Treatments
Nutgrass infestations of lawns and gardens are difficult to eradicate or control. This annoying condition is caused by the plant's extensive tubular (nutlet) root system that goes deep and wide underground. These rhizome or chain-strand roots are the main source of nutgrass renewal, more so than from the seeds of their flowers. Because nutgrass keeps a continuous reservoir of dormant roots (nutlets), it has an endless supply future growths. Thus, when one growth of shoots is treated or removed, another growth or two will sprout up nearby. To minimize nutgrass growth, its root system must be destroyed, which is not a simple one-time-treatment task.
What is nutgrass or nutsedge?
Nutgrass is a heavy perennial grass of the sedge family. Technically, two common varieties of it (purple and yellow nutgrass) are called cyperus rotundus and cyperus esculentus, respectively. Nutgrass is also called water grass because it likes moisture, tight soil, and lots of hot sunshine. It's often recognized as the fast-growing taller grass that appears shortly after mowing a lawn. Its course grass-like shoots (three-to-five or more per plant) are each slightly triangular or V-shaped with a strong vertical vein going down the middle of each. Often, the yellow variety is a lighter green than the surrounding lawn. Nutgrass is invasive. It will spread without some kind of controlling treatment. It goes dormant in the autumn of winter climates, but will reappear the following late spring.
Nutgrass Treatments.
Five common treatments for controlling nutgrass are available to the homeowner and consumer. Each one, listed below, can be done in a safe manner. But none of them are effective one-time cures. Overall, the two herbicide treatments listed below (4 and 5) appear to be effective means for controlling it at this time. However, the chemical treatments must done safely by following the product's written directions for use. Herbicide appliers could also read and know the products material-safety-data-sheets (MSDS).
1. Mechanically disturbing it. Plowing, cultivating, tilling, or digging-up the ground, and then sifting out the nutgrass roots. This treatment works. But it has to be repeated often, which eliminates it as a lawn treatment, and makes it impractical for treating crowded gardens.
2. Pulling or weeding it. This treatment will make the shoots disappear for a while. However, most of its original roots are still submerged underground. Thus, these plants will soon return, often more of them than before.
3. Smothering it. Covering the infected area with sheeting, e.g., cardboard, plastic, plywood, canvas, or mulch. This treatment will slow nutgrass down for a while, but won't stop or kill it. Nutgrass will pierce its way through cardboard, cloth, plastic, and mulch. Also, its covered roots will remain dormant for return growths once the covering is removed or wears thin. Additionally, the nutgrass will spread to the outside of the covering, underground.
4. Spraying it with a diluted herbicide solution. Spraying the infected area with a chemical formula purchased at local gardening outlets is a common choice among busy homeowners. This treatment works okay with repeated applications, done at consumer's risk. The applications generally are done when no rain or dampness is in the forecast. Also, commercial lawn-care companies can do this treatment effectively; actually, they are a good choice for a safe, more expensive cure.
Still, the main herbicide chosen for the treatment must be compatible with the infested yard in question. For example, one herbicide will work well with some grasses, but will harm others. Also, a lawn-compatible herbicide could harm the lawn if applied too often or too strongly. Additionally, another herbicide can be used on the lawn, but it cannot be used near vegetable or ornamental plants. Thus, the applier of the spray must be careful both in choosing the herbicide and applying it.
Also, the more recent urea-type herbicides, like, halosulfuron-methyl, appear to work well on the nutgrass infested lawns if applied regularly and seasonally for two or more years. It can take that long to minimize the nutgrass root system, depending on how well its start is. This kind of spraying can reduce infestations over large areas of ground.
5. Spot-treating it with a strong herbicide solution. Applying a strong herbicide solution to the individual nutgrass plants can be done with a narrow-stream spray-bottle or a thick artist's paint brush. This treatment is best suited for mild infestations of nutgrass or fairly small patches of it. (Note: if an entire lawn is heavily infested, it might be best to 1) kill the whole yard with a total vegetation killer, 2) plow or till up its ground while sieving out the nutlets, and 3) reseed it after a short waiting period. Vegetation killers do not destroy the ground itself, rather, only the vegetation growing on it. If in doubt about this step, obtain a professional opinion first.)
Yet, during the spot-treatment of nutgrass, the herbicide solution must be applied to the nutgrass leaves directly, again at the consumer's risk. The herbicide will then translocate from leaves to the stem and roots. Also, applying a daub of the solution onto the plant's leaf-crotch at the stem helps to kill the plant, but the bulk of the application must go onto the leaves for a good uptake that will reach the roots. Additionally, the applier must keep the solution from touching the surrounding grasses or plants as much as possible, especially if the chemical is a kill-all herbicide.
Glyphosate (organic-salt), a well-known main ingredient of kill-all-vegetation herbicides, can be used here. A 12-to-16-oz bottle of 41% liquid concentrate can be purchased for about at local outlets. Glyphosate is fairly nontoxic to humans, but it must still be handled safely by wearing rubber gloves and other apparel. This concentrate can be applied to the nutgrass shoots by first diluting it with water anywhere from a 1:1 to 1:20 concentration in a small capped container. First-time users might want to start with a 1:20 solution to test how the process works by trial and error, while working up to a stronger concentration. Also, home owners having delicate grasses and ornamental plants will want to use a dilute glyphosate solution to start with, like, 1:20 or more, which is much closer to the diluted spray concentrations. Furthermore, the halosulfuron-methyl herbicide mentioned above in #4 can be used for spot-treating nutgrass by following the product's directions for diluting it to a powerful spray concentration (0.9-g granules/gallon) for about .
Certain sources suggest adding other ingredients to these kind of solutions, like, the adding of a surfactant (dish soap), hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, or a particular salt to make it stick to the leaves better, or to help it absorb through them faster. But, none of these additions are necessary. Also, such mixtures can yield slight chemical alterations over time, which will give undesirable results by not working well at all, or by the killing of adjacent grasses and plants inexplicably. Yet, when freshly-made spot-treatments are done carefully, the nutgrass will die in about one-to-two weeks without causing excessive disturbances to the surrounding vegetation.
Six-day appearances of yellow nutgrass after spot-treatment with 20% glyphosate solution.
Shoots slightly limp; no color change
Shoots more limp; slight color change to amber
Shoots touch the ground; overall color is more amber
Shoots start to wither; color is still more amber
Shoots lay on ground and begin to curl; only slight yellow-green color left
Shoots are withered straw-like stalks lying on the ground or lawn
Spot-treating nutgrass with a strong herbicide solution is time-consuming, and requires substantial patience to carry out, especially when the home/yard owner does it alone. Undoubtedly, his/her neighbors will ask, "Hey! What are you doing there?" But, this fairly inexpensive treatment works well for minimizing nutgrass infestations if the solution is handled and applied carefully at the owners discretion. Once the main infestation is under control, it's fairly easy to suppress any new growths with continued spot-applications.
At this time, the spraying or spot-treating of common nutgrasses with carefully selected herbicide solutions appears to be an effective means for minimizing its infestations of yards and gardens. These treatments can be done by the yard/garden-owners themselves at their own risks, or by hired professionals.
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Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Organic Sunflower Sprouting Seeds (Un-Shelled)- 18 Lbs- Edible Seed, Gardening, Hydroponics, Growing Salad Greens, Sprouts & Food Storage - Sun Flower
!±8± Organic Sunflower Sprouting Seeds (Un-Shelled)- 18 Lbs- Edible Seed, Gardening, Hydroponics, Growing Salad Greens, Sprouts & Food Storage - Sun Flower
Brand : Handy Pantry | Rate : | Price : $79.95
Post Date : Nov 29, 2011 22:28:33 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
| Price : $79.95Post Date : Nov 29, 2011 22:28:33 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
3 Lb. Nitrogen Packed Can of Certified Organic Unshelled Sunflower sprouting seed. Prime-quality, high germination, specially selected, microbial tested. Fresh, crunchy sprouts in 3 to 5 days! Nutritional info: Vitamins A, B, C and E Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Niacin, Phosphorus, Potassium Protein: 25%. Instructions for Sprouting: Sunflower Lettuce may be grown by placing the soaked drained seed close together (single layer only) on the top of 1 inch of rich, damp, organic soil. A pie plate works well as a container. Cover with 8 layers of wet, black and white newspaper and place in a black plastic bag for 3 days. Remove the bag and paper and place in dim light for 2 days. For the balance of the time move to a window or a place with very good lighting. Sprinkle lightly or mist with water once per day. DO NOT saturate. Harvest in 7 to 10 days when the hulls fall off, the leaves open and they have a lush, green appearance. Cut off at the roots, rinse and refrigerate in an airtight container. Sunflower Lettuce is a favorite mainstay for all salads.
- 18 Lb Nitrogen Packed Bucket of Unshelled Sunflower Sprouting Seeds
- Certified Organic Sprouting Seeds
- High Germination Rate
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Saturday, November 26, 2011
The How To Guide To Organic Indoor Gardening
Since I can remember, I have always loved to get my hands dirty in the garden. I can still remember growing my first pea plant and anxiously watching everyday for that little sprout to get going. It always fascinated me how such a delicate sprout could, with the proper care, become a strong, vibrant plant that will produce delicious fruits.
The garden has always been of great Importance to me. It can be a point of pride or - if its in poor repair - a source of embarrassment. For these reasons, and because a garden is such an Important investment, it only makes sense to provide all the tender loving care that you can give.
Sometimes this is easier said than done, because gardening is so complex, right?
Wrong!
Anyone who has the desire to grow plants can do it. Whether it be fruits and veggies for eating or beautiful flowers to decorate your home. Growing a garden is a simple thing when you educate yourself first. You should do research on any species of plant that you want to grow so that you will be ready and able to address any issues that may come at you along the way. I'm going to touch on the basics of growing your own garden. It will be entirely up to you to do the research on any other particular species other than what is mentioned in this article.
Lighting
Being a gardener, the winters have always been the toughest times for me. I'm not sure if its cabin fever or just a need to make things grow. In some parts of the United States, it isn't an issue, but, in Kentucky, the winters can be very harsh, making it impossible to grow outdoors.
With the evolution of CFL technology ( compact fluorescent lamp ), it has become very affordable to move my garden indoors. The CFL's remind me of aquarium lighting and uses about as much energy. I use New Wave T5 High Output Fluorescent Lights in my garden with grand results.
These new high output fluorescent lamps have an extremely high lumen per watt rating compared to standard fluorescent bulbs, making them extremely suitable for indoor cultivation purposes.
High-output florescent lamps have a very low heat factor which allows the fixture to be mounted extremely close to the plant canopy, thus increasing usable light levels. The New Wave T5 features a wide throw reflector lined with Imported german 95% reflective aluminum to drive every available lumen of light to your plants. Light output is 300% higher in this high-tech reflector compared to cheap fluorescent fixtures.
I keep my lights very close to the tops of the plants and my young sprouts are in no danger of being burned or dried out by the heat. And it gives you peace of mind knowing that there isn't as much of a chance for fire like there is with heavier, hotter, high output metal halide lamps.
When your vegetative area starts getting a little larger, or when you are growing plants larger than 24 inches tall, you may find it time to purchase a metal halide for your indoor garden.
Metal Halide plant lamp systems produce a strong output of the blue spectrum, which will promote strong vegetative growth. This blue spectrum is most needed by plants for rapid growth. It's the best type of light to be used as a primary light source (if little or no natural sunlight is available). If you are growing leafy plants such as lettuce or herbs then a Metal Halide bulb is sufficient. Metal halide plant growth lamp systems can be used as the primary light source to grow plants from start to finish.
The T5 replacement lamps sell for about each (TL5 HO/54W/865) or for four, while the HID bulb can go for about for MH (MS 1000 hor) or 0 (LU100S/HTL/EN hortlux) or 0 (LU1000 standard). The amount of light you can put on the plants will depend to a much greater extent on the distance that the leaves are from the plant than the fixture. The kind of light you want depends on the kind of plants you have.
The Metal Halide will give you more foliage, the High Pressure Sodium will induce bloom but draw the plants out longer. Depending on the natural heat and light conditions where you are growing, the heat output from the HID lights can help keep the growing space warmer. This can be a consideration especially when you are spending good money on heat. Depending on how far North you are, it can be very difficult to get plants to bloom in a greenhouse in the dead of winter. You can, however, mature fruit which has already set.
So, the answer is that every decision is a trade off. Make up your own mind.
HID Lighting Helpful Tips
Hanging height: Due to the heat that is emitted from these types of fixtures, you should hang them according to size. Smaller wattage systems (100 and 250) should be hung about 2 to 3 feet from the top of the plants. Medium wattage systems (400 and 600) should be hung around 4 feet from the top of the plants. High wattage systems (1000 and up) should be placed at least 4 to 6 feet from the plant tops.
How long should lights run? This depends on the type of plant. Most plants and vegetables need about 10 to 12 hours of light to promote growth. Plants that produce fruits or flowers will show improvement with up to 16 hours a day of supplemental light.
Light Emmiting Diode (L.E.D.) - I'm interested to see if these lights will be the lights of the future.The basic idea is that a growing plant uses only a narrow band of the lighting spectrum for chlorophyll production. Up to now the only choice has been CFL, Sodium or Halide lights which both produce a very wide band of lighting and less than 10% of a Sodium or Halide lamps output is actually used by the plant.
With the advent of LED lighting, they can custom tailor the output of the lamp to match exactly the band of light required for Chlorophyll production! This means that almost 100% of the power input for LED GROW LIGHTs is used for plant production.
Another great benefit of the LED GROW LIGHT is the very small amount of heat produced. The l.e.d. grow lights operate completely cool to the touch and plants can actually grow right up to the fixture, try that with any Sodium or Metal Halide lamp.
1) No fans required for cooling
2) No heat damage to plants
3) No high temperature lights to worry about
Also, the LED GROW LIGHT does not require a ballast and simply plugs into any standard household outlet. These lights have a rated life of over 100,000 hours! (there are 8,760 hours in a year).
BLUE LIGHT is important for the formation of chlorophyll, chloroplast development (chloroplast are the little organs inside cells where photosynthesis takes place, more of them = more photosynthesis = more plant growth), also, photosynthesis circadian rhythm (knowing when lights are on and off - related to flowering too) and the production of some enzymes in plants is controlled by blue light. In land plants, a decrease in blue light also might signal to a leaf that it is a shade leaf... meaning it thinks it is not in good light, so it won't make chloroplasts, which means no matter how many photons of light hit that leaf it will not produce the maximum amount of energy that it could.
RED LIGHT stimulates phytochrome responses such as stem elongation, flowering, and other plant morphology changes.
HPS lights have more yellow/red which is why they lead to elongated stems, and great flowering. Red light can increase starch accumulation in some plants (that is like animals gaining fat, extra energy).
It Can be used by itself to grow plants or to supplement HPS (High Pressure Sodium), MH (Metal Halide) or Fluorescent Grow Lights.
Light Emitting Diode (L.E.D.) technology is the absolute newest technology in plant growth. These lights represent the cutting edge of horticultural lighting. LED lights are currently being used by NASA for growing plants in outer space!
Planning and Strategy
Planning and strategy are obviously important for a healthy garden. Make sure to have sufficient lighting, proper soil with good drainage, good nutrients, fresh air, room to grow, and a quality water supply.This will ensure a healthy garden that will pay you back for all your hard work and patience.You should plan for plenty of grow room. Before long, your garden will be lush, and may become difficult to care for if there isn't enough space for you to water.
Make a list, depending on how big you want your garden and what you want to grow. Be sure to ask questions at your local garden center. The people who work at garden centers generally are very knowledgeable about all aspects of growing.
So, make a list, Check it twice, And lets get growing!
The Organic gardener
Organic grow mediums - I always start my seeds in Bio-dome. Bio-dome make germination a breeze with a climate controlled environment. Everything you need to get your seeds going can be bought in a inexpensive kit at your local garden center or you can pick one up at wal-mart for around four bucks.
Tip: Get a spray bottle and mist your seedlings often. As your plants grow, they will benefit from an occasional misting.
Once your seeds have sprouted, you can move them from the bio-dome and plant them into individual containers.
*This is very important:
Be sure to place in containers that drain well. If your soil or containers do not drain well, it will be difficult for their roots to grow big and strong which in turn will deprive your plant of important nutrients and oxygen, resulting in lanky plants with small fruits and, given enough time, will cause disease and unwanted pest.
I always fill my containers with Foxfarm soil. The ultimate potting soil - everything your plants need, in one bag. With their powerhouse blend of earthworm castings, bat guano, and sea going fish and crab meal. Composted forest humus, sandy loam, and sphagnum peat moss give Foxfarm its light, aerated texture. Start with Foxfarm and watch your plants come to life!
I like to add a little perlite to my mix for even better drainage.
Watering properly - This is one of the most common problems with gardeners. I know that it was frustrating for me until i learned the trick to keeping my plants watered well without overdoing it. If you only take one thing from this article with you to your garden...take this tip!
Stick your finger in the soil, about two knuckles deep.
Check for moisture.
If its moist, you will feel it.
Give it another day.
If its too dry, it will be difficult to break the soil very deep.
Do not have a watering schedule without knowing if your plants need watering or not. Water just enough for your plant to consume within 30 minutes or so. This will help prevent root rot and allow your roots to absorb oxygen. The end result will be a huge root mass that will supply your plants with all the nutrients they need to produce the goodies that we all love so much.
*Tip: The quality of water is of great importance. If you only have a tap water source, be sure to set your water out in containers for at least 24 hrs. before watering. This will give the chlorine and other harmful elements time to dissipate. Using chlorinated tap water will destroy vital microbes that help feed your plants.
Nutrients - You cant just rely on good soil for your nutrients. The truth is that most of your nutrients that come in your soil will be used up within a few weeks. You will need to supplement your soil depending on your plant variety. If you do a simple word search for homemade fertilizers, you will find many home remedies for making your own organic compost. I'm not going to touch on that because its not the route that I take to organicville.
You can start a compost pile somewhere in your backyard but it brings in to many pest for my garden so I buy my nutrients all ready broke down and packaged for easy storage. For a small price I get all I need bottled up and ready for easy application. I use, but not limited to Foxfarm hydroponic plant food. Now i'm an old dirt warrior but I love the easiness of the bottled nutrients. Just because it says hydroponic plant food doesnt mean we can use it on our soil. It works so well for me that i'm sure that I will never try anything else. All the directions are on the bottles and easy to follow.
Get your garden going with Grow Big, Foxfarm's fast-acting, water-soluble fertilizer for lush, vegetative, compact growth. Use Grow Big early in the season when young plants need an extra boost. They add earthworm castings and Norwegian kelp into this special brew to encourage sturdier, healthier stems and leaves, but they also provide enough nutrients and trace minerals to create the kind of healthy branching that you'll need later in the season for more abundant buds and blooms.
Garden Tip: Allow new plantings a few days to settle in, then begin using at the rate of two teaspoons per gallon of water every other time you water. You can also use Grow Big as a foliar feeding, applying to both sides of leaves, preferably early in the morning. At the first sign of flowering, switch to Tiger Bloom Liquid Plant Food.
Ready to bloom? Tiger Bloom makes it happen. This is an ultra-potent, fast-acting, high-phosphorus fertilizer with just enough nitrogen to sustain healthy, vigorous green growth during flowering. The low pH keeps it stable and ensures that the micronutrient's will be available when plants need them. In addition to containing critical trace minerals,Foxfarm brews their liquid fertilizer with earthworm castings and kelp meal for a biologically active formula.
Garden tip: Use Tiger Bloom at the first sign of flowering at the rate of 2-3 teaspoons per gallon of water. It can also be used as a foliar fertilizer; just apply it to both sides of leaves early in the morning. To extend flowering or fruiting, add their Big Bloom liquid fertilizer late in the season.
I also use an all purpose deodorized fish emulsion. This will give you a measured dose of nitrogen to get you through for a few weeks.
Alaska Fish Fertilizer contains over 19 trace elements and 11 different vitamins, including vitamins B-1 and B-12. Deodorized for use on all indoor and outdoor plants. Often combined with Maxicrop to enhance performance. It will not burn the plants.
Root Development
This is probably the most important part of your plants development. Without a large, healthy root system, your plant will be starved of vital nutrients and will produce a small harvest that will hardly be worth your time. The bigger and healthier the root, the bigger and healthier the plant. These two things go hand in hand.
So, I like to focus from seedling, on taking care of the root system and giving it delicate nutrients to boost its growth. This will ensure that my garden will produce large tomatoes and other vegetables. I use Maxicrop liquid seaweed for extra minerals and to bulk up my roots.
Maxicrop Liquid Seaweed (Kelp Extract)
Derived from fresh Norwegian kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum), Maxicrop Kelp contains over 70 minerals, micronutrients, amino acids and vitamins. Also contains growth regulators which stimulate vigorous root development and plant growth. Encourages tolerance to plant stresses such as frost, pests, disease and drought.
Last, but not least I use Earth Juice, a catalyst I give my plants and it increases how much the plants can take in. If you can get more of your nutrients in, your plants are sure to be full.
Earth Juice Catalyst
The crucial link, is a versatile and vital product for the home, farm and anyone who wants to optimize their plants and trees nutrient uptake for increased growth and yields. Catalyst provides whats missing - enzymes, hormones, vitamins, amino acids, nutrients, and surfactants that aid in stimulating overall plant growth and production. Best when used in conjunction with organic or synthetic liquid and dry fertilizers.
Do not use with synthetic time-released fertilizers. A great organic alternative to synthetic B-1 formulas and growth boosters. Use as an organic cloning solution for soft-stem cuttings.
Air circulation and Exhaust
Air circulation - Its very important to provide your garden with fresh air. An oscillating fan will usually be enough to provide fresh air and to provide some sort of exhaust as long as your garden is in the open. If you grow your garden in a closet or a similar small space, be sure to leave the door open as much as possible. This will ensure proper ventilation and your garden will do well.
Good air circulation is essential for a good, strong garden. The motion of the air will cause your plants to have fat stalks and be able to support larger fruit. I wont spend too much more time on this subject. Just go buy a fan and provide some fresh air for your garden. It will love you for it!
Try to buy a fan that oscillates, It will give you more option than a stationary. Making sure to hit every part of your garden.
Your light will depend on how much exhaust your garden will require. The heat from some lamps need to be directed out of the garden area immediately. I have included some Pictures to give you a better idea about exhaust fans.These exhaust systems are not necessary with CFL's or LED's.
Temperature and Humidity Control
Temperature & Humidity Control - Keeping an eye out for your temperature and humidity can help prevent unwanted pest, mold, mildew, and over - heating. Most plants grow well between 70 and 80 degrees and, I like to keep my humidity around 50%, but, it will depend on your choice of plant life.
I use this EcoPlus thermometer / hygrometer. They are really inexpensive and will save you a lot of headache later. They are usually around .00.
o Perfect for constant temperature monitoring of a garden.
o Measures indoor/outdoor temperature & indoor humidity.
o Stores the Min./Max. values of the indoor/outdoor temperature and indoor humidity.
o Switch between °C and °F.
o Clock function with alarm
o 12/24 hour mode switch
o Water proof temperature probe
Really hot conditions can result in dry soil and your plants wilting away.
Pest Control
Pest Control - There are some really good organic pest killers and prevention products on the market but, I have found that a combination of cleanliness and preventive maintenance are the best avenues for a pest free garden.
Be sure to clean your grow area before planting the first seed. A couple of teaspoons of bleach in a gallon of water should do the trick. Spray your grow area down well and wipe dry.Pay special attention to the corners, making sure to get every bit of dust and dirt.
I like to follow up with Safer Brand insect killing soap that is all organic. This stuff keeps all the little guys away! It is best used as a preventative measure to ward off insects that might want to eat your lovely plant friends. It contains seaweed extract to keep plants healthy and combat stress.
An OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) organic product, which means you're not spraying your leafy friends with toxins, unfriendly to either you or your plant. Made from plant oils, the soap gets rid of unwanted insects by disrupting their waxy outer skin (beneficial insects such as ladybugs and praying mantis are hard-bodied and not affected by the soap).
Keeping Safer's on hand will ensure that your garden is a pest free environment, enabling your plants to grow to their fullest capacity.Here are a few examples of the pest that can ravage your garden.
Fungus, Molds, and Mildew Control
Fungus, Molds, and Mildew - This is another instance where I believe that Safer Brand is the best choice for my garden. I use their Garden Fungicide for my entire grow area. I would suggest spraying your grow area down with Safer before planting. This will kill any lingering mold or mildew that can harm your plants.
I believe that with the proper care and preventive maintenance, you can stop these problems from ever occurring. Just remember.....Keep your work area clean and find a good organic product to keep on hand and your end result will be a grow area that you can be proud of and it will produce a bounty for you repeatedly.
Sing to your plants!
I know it sounds crazy but they love it! You could whistle or just make a point to breath on your plants everyday. You could buy an expensive Co2 emitter but, for a small indoor garden, your breath will be plenty of Co2 to make a difference.
Here is a report about the importance of Co2 that I found on the internet:
The Importance of Carbon Dioxide (Co2) for Healthy Plant Growth
Carbon Dioxide (CO2) contributes to plant growth as part of the miracle of nature known as photosynthesis. This enables plants to combine Carbon Dioxide and water with the aid of light energy to form sugar. Some of these sugars are converted into complex compounds that increase dry solid plant substances for continued growth to final maturity. However, when the supply of carbon dioxide is cut off, or reduced, the complex plant cell structure cannot utilize the suns energy fully and growth or development is curtailed.
Although carbon dioxide is one of three main components which combine to produce the products necessary for plant growth, the amount of carbon dioxide in the air is only 0.03% (250 to 330 parts per million). This compares to 78% nitrogen, 21% oxygen and 0.97% trace gases in normal air. Numerous tests have proven that during the winter months carbon dioxide concentrations inside greenhouses is invariably much lower than in outside air. This same phenomenon has been shown in controlled environment gardens.
CARBON DIOXIDE (CO2) - IMPROVES PLANT GROWTH AND QUALITY
Research has shown that in most cases rate of plant growth under otherwise identical growing conditions is directly related to carbon dioxide concentration.
The amount of carbon dioxide a plant requires to grow may vary from plant to plant, but tests show that most plants will stop growing when the CO2 level decreases below 150 ppm. Even at 220 ppm, a slow-down in plant growth is significantly noticeable.
Colorado State University conducted tests with carnations and other flowers in controlled CO2 atmospheres ranging from 200 to 550 ppm. The higher CO2 concentrations significantly increased the rate of formation of dry plant matter, total flower yield and market value.
So basically, Co2, will help in making your fruits and flowers bigger and better. It will make all the difference to talk, sing, breath or whistle to your plants
And, you could supplement your singing with a Co2 boost kit. You can pick one up from .00 - 0.00 from many different suppliers over the internet. This would make all the difference in the world! Highly Recommended for Larger Gardens!!!
So, Enjoy your new garden, and make sure to have fun with it. With the proper care and a little patience, your garden will pay you back repeatedly.
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Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Grow Your Own Popcorn!
Growing your own popcorn is very easy. It does take some soil, site preparation and a little planning. You can use almost any container that will hold soil. Old buckets, planters, or a barrel cut in half. Even bales of hay can be turned into a planter. Simply lay out a square to the size that you want and fill it full of your potting soil. This not only makes a productive planter, but it is unique and decorative as well.
You need to start out by finding a good source for popcorn seeds. Most home improvement stores, discount stores and hardware stores carry a variety of different seeds. Farm stores can be one of the best places for bulk seeds. You can order from one of the many seed suppliers on line also. I look for a good quality seed that produces well. Popcorn seeds come in many different colors and styles. You have your choice of just about any color you would like, as well as the different styles of corn such as mushroom or snowflake.
Once you have your seeds ordered, you need to start on soil preparation. All types of corn are heavy feeders. You need a good potting soil or some compost. I like to use both and mix it half and half . I also add a good 6-6-6 fertilizer in the soil mix. You can incorporate some leaves, grass clippings, horse or cow manure.
Find a nice spot that receives the most sunlight. This is a good place to start your garden. You can direct sow right into the ground or use your containers in that spot. Plant your seeds when the soil temperature is above 65 degrees or your seeds may not germinate. Plant the seeds about 8-10 inches apart. If you are using containers you want them that close so they will pollinate better. If they are planted too far apart, the pollen may not be able to pollinate the cobs very well.
After planting the seeds I like to cover them with a layer of rotten leaves or hay to keep the moisture in. Keep an eye on the moisture level of the soil. It should just be damp, but not full of water. Make sure any containers you use have sufficient holes in the bottom to allow for good drainage.
In a week to 10 days you will see the plants starting to sprout. Keep the moisture level as constant as you can. When the plants are 6-8 inches tall you can plant some beans next to them. This will allow the corn to use the nitrogen the beans put into the soil and the beans will grow up the stalks. This is a good way to use companion planting. It also lets you get more crop out of the same planting space.
When the corn starts reaching it maturity, it will send out tassels. These tassels are used to pollinate the cobs. It should take approximately 2 1/2 to 3 months depending on the variety of corn you are growing. You want to let the cobs remain on the stalk till the moisture levels drop. Let nature do it's job and when the stalks start to dry out it's time to check on the corn kernels. The easiest way to test them is by taking a few random kernels and seeing how long it takes them to pop.When the correct moisture level is achieved, the kernels will pop in a few minutes of being dropped into hot oil.
When you get to that level you need to pull all of the cobs from their stalks.Pick any beans as they ripen for another special treat. Now you need to remove the dried kernels from the cob. There are a couple of tools made for this, but I like to take a cob in my hands a twist back and forth until the kernels fall off. It's a good idea to have a large bowl underneath to catch the falling kernels. Pack the kernels into seal able plastic bags or into clean jars for storage. Keep them in a cool dark place until you use them.
When you are ready, fire up your favorite popcorn popper and enjoy a big bowl of home grown popcorn.
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Thursday, November 17, 2011
Clover Seeds, Red, (For Sprouting), Organic, 25# Bulk
!±8±Clover Seeds, Red, (For Sprouting), Organic, 25# Bulk
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Post Date : Nov 17, 2011 05:48:17
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